8-30-2026 Update Posted Below

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We tested many, many changes during this timeframe, especially with regards to the timing map and curve for our Harley Sportster turbo setup. Blew 2 headgaskets figuring that out; suffice to say, getting the timing correct with a turbocharger is the most important thing when considering reliability, and the only real way to figure that out is to test, tune, and repeat. At this stage, we tried using just the Dynatek 2000i as our custom ignition system, but it wasn’t working out too well. The Hobbs switch curve provided by Dynatek is subpar (with too much midrange timing; it isn’t even a true curve, just flat); you can run curve #4 and retard the base timing, but then the bike runs too hot, has poor economy, and generally only performs well under boost.

We also tested all of the HSR carbs—42/45/48—and made numerous jetting changes, including different needles, accelerator pump nozzles, float heights, and various air filters. We even tried mechanical methanol injection (which didn’t work). It took a ton of tinkering, but we got the bike to the point where its driveability is pretty close to stock. I.E. pop the choke, start it up stone cold, let it idle for 20 seconds, put the choke in, and take off. The adjustability of the Mikuni HSR allows us to get the jetting very, very dialed in. AFR's during cruise are in the high 13's, low 14's, dipping down into the low 12's at moderate throttle positions and 2-4psi of boost, and are well into the mid 11's under full boost with our turbo kit.

We tested many, many changes during this timeframe, especially with regards to the timing map and curve for our Harley Sportster turbo setup. Blew 2 headgaskets figuring that out; suffice to say, getting the timing correct with a turbocharger is the most important thing when considering reliability, and the only real way to figure that out is to test, tune, and repeat. At this stage, we tried using just the Dynatek 2000i as our custom ignition system, but it wasn’t working out too well. The Hobbs switch curve provided by Dynatek is subpar (with too much midrange timing; it isn’t even a true curve, just flat); you can run curve #4 and retard the base timing, but then the bike runs too hot, has poor economy, and generally only performs well under boost.

We also tested all of the HSR carbs—42/45/48—and made numerous jetting changes, including different needles, accelerator pump nozzles, float heights, and various air filters. We even tried mechanical methanol injection (which didn’t work). It took a ton of tinkering, but we got the bike to the point where its driveability is pretty close to stock. I.E. pop the choke, start it up stone cold, let it idle for 20 seconds, put the choke in, and take off. The adjustability of the Mikuni HSR allows us to get the jetting very, very dialed in. AFR's during cruise are in the high 13's, low 14's, dipping down into the low 12's at moderate throttle positions and 2-4psi of boost, and are well into the mid 11's under full boost with our turbo kit.

We tested many, many changes during this timeframe, especially with regards to the timing map and curve for our Harley Sportster turbo setup. Blew 2 headgaskets figuring that out; suffice to say, getting the timing correct with a turbocharger is the most important thing when considering reliability, and the only real way to figure that out is to test, tune, and repeat. At this stage, we tried using just the Dynatek 2000i as our custom ignition system, but it wasn’t working out too well. The Hobbs switch curve provided by Dynatek is subpar (with too much midrange timing; it isn’t even a true curve, just flat); you can run curve #4 and retard the base timing, but then the bike runs too hot, has poor economy, and generally only performs well under boost.

We also tested all of the HSR carbs—42/45/48—and made numerous jetting changes, including different needles, accelerator pump nozzles, float heights, and various air filters. We even tried mechanical methanol injection (which didn’t work). It took a ton of tinkering, but we got the bike to the point where its driveability is pretty close to stock. I.E. pop the choke, start it up stone cold, let it idle for 20 seconds, put the choke in, and take off. The adjustability of the Mikuni HSR allows us to get the jetting very, very dialed in. AFR's during cruise are in the high 13's, low 14's, dipping down into the low 12's at moderate throttle positions and 2-4psi of boost, and are well into the mid 11's under full boost with our turbo kit.

We tested many, many changes during this timeframe, especially with regards to the timing map and curve for our Harley Sportster turbo setup. Blew 2 headgaskets figuring that out; suffice to say, getting the timing correct with a turbocharger is the most important thing when considering reliability, and the only real way to figure that out is to test, tune, and repeat. At this stage, we tried using just the Dynatek 2000i as our custom ignition system, but it wasn’t working out too well. The Hobbs switch curve provided by Dynatek is subpar (with too much midrange timing; it isn’t even a true curve, just flat); you can run curve #4 and retard the base timing, but then the bike runs too hot, has poor economy, and generally only performs well under boost.

We also tested all of the HSR carbs—42/45/48—and made numerous jetting changes, including different needles, accelerator pump nozzles, float heights, and various air filters. We even tried mechanical methanol injection (which didn’t work). It took a ton of tinkering, but we got the bike to the point where its driveability is pretty close to stock. I.E. pop the choke, start it up stone cold, let it idle for 20 seconds, put the choke in, and take off. The adjustability of the Mikuni HSR allows us to get the jetting very, very dialed in. AFR's during cruise are in the high 13's, low 14's, dipping down into the low 12's at moderate throttle positions and 2-4psi of boost, and are well into the mid 11's under full boost with our turbo kit.

We tested many, many changes during this timeframe, especially with regards to the timing map and curve for our Harley Sportster turbo setup. Blew 2 headgaskets figuring that out; suffice to say, getting the timing correct with a turbocharger is the most important thing when considering reliability, and the only real way to figure that out is to test, tune, and repeat. At this stage, we tried using just the Dynatek 2000i as our custom ignition system, but it wasn’t working out too well. The Hobbs switch curve provided by Dynatek is subpar (with too much midrange timing; it isn’t even a true curve, just flat); you can run curve #4 and retard the base timing, but then the bike runs too hot, has poor economy, and generally only performs well under boost.

We also tested all of the HSR carbs—42/45/48—and made numerous jetting changes, including different needles, accelerator pump nozzles, float heights, and various air filters. We even tried mechanical methanol injection (which didn’t work). It took a ton of tinkering, but we got the bike to the point where its driveability is pretty close to stock. I.E. pop the choke, start it up stone cold, let it idle for 20 seconds, put the choke in, and take off. The adjustability of the Mikuni HSR allows us to get the jetting very, very dialed in. AFR's during cruise are in the high 13's, low 14's, dipping down into the low 12's at moderate throttle positions and 2-4psi of boost, and are well into the mid 11's under full boost with our turbo kit.

We tested many, many changes during this timeframe, especially with regards to the timing map and curve for our Harley Sportster turbo setup. Blew 2 headgaskets figuring that out; suffice to say, getting the timing correct with a turbocharger is the most important thing when considering reliability, and the only real way to figure that out is to test, tune, and repeat. At this stage, we tried using just the Dynatek 2000i as our custom ignition system, but it wasn’t working out too well. The Hobbs switch curve provided by Dynatek is subpar (with too much midrange timing; it isn’t even a true curve, just flat); you can run curve #4 and retard the base timing, but then the bike runs too hot, has poor economy, and generally only performs well under boost.

We also tested all of the HSR carbs—42/45/48—and made numerous jetting changes, including different needles, accelerator pump nozzles, float heights, and various air filters. We even tried mechanical methanol injection (which didn’t work). It took a ton of tinkering, but we got the bike to the point where its driveability is pretty close to stock. I.E. pop the choke, start it up stone cold, let it idle for 20 seconds, put the choke in, and take off. The adjustability of the Mikuni HSR allows us to get the jetting very, very dialed in. AFR's during cruise are in the high 13's, low 14's, dipping down into the low 12's at moderate throttle positions and 2-4psi of boost, and are well into the mid 11's under full boost with our turbo kit.